Whether you are dreaming of running big water surrounded by Morpho butterflies and the calls of parakeets or boofing your way down crystal clear creeks, Ecuador is the place for you! Since I have been here I have had the opportunity to run nine different rivers; each new river becomes my immediate new favorite! There is something for everyone here, from class II to class V, so whether you are an intermediate or advanced paddler you will an amazing adventure. The following is a collection of logistical and cultural notes to help you plan and take full advantage of your trip.
The People
First of all, one of the things I have come across again and again is how amazingly kind and helpful all of the people I have met have been. People here love to share their incredible country and are very willing to help answer questions and give directions. I have spent time both in the cities and in more rural areas and have not yet had any trouble with robbery or harassment. I have heard of some tourists losing bags that were left unattended, but as long as you have a healthy awareness of your surroundings and a little bit of common sense you should have no issues. The only frustrating cultural idea I have come across is that I am often asked by men here if I am married and I respond that no, but I have a boyfriend. The constant response is “oh well he is far away, so you are pretty much single. You need an Ecuadorian boyfriend, your boyfriend back home will never know” and then the heavy handed flirting begins. So just a little warning to women traveling alone who are not interested in getting involved with men here, don’t let this cultural norm mess with you. A little tip, I have found that if you tell the men you are engaged they leave you alone. But other than this everyone from taxi drivers to restaurant owners to local paddlers are stoked to have you there and are excited to learn more about you and help you get to know their home!
Transportation
To get to Ecuador I flew with my boat and all of my gear from Portland, OR to Quito. I flew with American Airlines and paid $200 to check what they decided was my “canoe.” I didn’t argue with them about that and was just happy they weren’t annoyed with me. I did my research beforehand to make sure that there were no explicit restrictions against kayaks and wrapped my boat in plastic that I got from the Kayak Shed in order to both protect it and so that I could pass it off as surfing equipment if necessary.
Once in Ecuador, the best transportation options are bus and taxi. The easiest and cheapest way to get to Baeza and Tena is by bus. There are busses that travel from Quito (terminal Quitumbe) to Baeza and then on to Tena (Terminal) pretty much every hour and most companies have room to take kayaks (especially Baños and Flota Pelileo). Look The trip costs around $4 Quito to Baeza and $4 Baeza to Tena and you may or may not be charged for your kayak (around $5). This page has some great information about bus travel with kayaks: http://www.kayakecuador.com/Travel_Buses%20Quito-Tena.htm. But if the logistics of the bus seem intimidating, or you have too many kayaks to take in the bus, it is also fairly easy to find a taxi willing to take you from Quito to Tena for around $120. The best way to look into this is to contact the ERI or another river company in Tena and ask for recommendations.
In terms of shuttles when you arrive in Baeza or Tena, taxis are your best bet. Again talk to local paddlers or companies to find out which taxi drivers know the rivers the best and know the put-ins and take-outs. There are quite a few taxi drivers who are also paddlers and might be stoked to take a break from work and run a section with you! Shuttle prices depend on the distance to the river (for example from Tena to the Bajo Mis is $10 to the Alto Hollín $40) and when split between a group of paddlers can be quite cheap!
Tena
Rivers
There seem to be endless rivers surrounding and only a short drive from Tena. For a technical, boulder garden feel with abundant boofs you can paddle the Río Piatua (Class IV), any of the sections of the Jondachi (class III-V), or the Alto Misahualli (class IV). If you are looking for a longer day (70 km) of technical bigger water head out to the Alto Hollín, or even make it into a two day trip. If you’re excited about running a quintessential big jungle river head to the Bajo Misahualli. If you are a more intermediate paddler there are great class II/III sections on the Jatunyacu or the Medio Misahualli. And this is just the beginning! There is also great paddling on the Rio Tena, Rio Anzu, etc.
If you come during the normal paddling season (November to February) you will find tons of international paddling friends. But don’t worry if this season doesn’t work for you because the rivers here are always running and there is a strong local paddling scene! Paddlers here are always stoked to get out on the river and share their beloved runs with new paddlers!
Lodging
There are hundreds of different hostals in Tena so you can definitely take your pick. I spent most of my time at Hostal Tena Ñaui, which is located up on the hill above Tena. It is quite nice to be able to get out of the bustle and noise of the city and there is an incredible view. Rooms run from $8 to $12 per person and the staff there are very welcoming, happy to answer questions, and do all they can to make your stay the best it can be. There is also Hostal Pakay, which is also located on the hill above the city and is owned by a tourism guide/kayaker.
Tourist Activities
If you want to take a break from paddling and explore what other adventures the area has to offer there is so much to do! Some of the highlights include a jungle tour through the Gran Cañon, a side canyon off of the Jondachi that is draped in jungle plants and awe-inspiring waterfalls. In addition, you can travel to the Amazoonica a jungle animal rescue center that also serves as a zoo. Finally, there is the Laguna Azul, which is one of many beautiful swimming spots. By talking with locals and doing some online research you can find many other options!
Baeza and El Chaco
Rivers
So far in this area I have been able to run the bigwater Cañon (class IV) and Bonbon (class IV) sections of the Río Quijos and the more technical Río Oyacachi (Class IV+). I have heard there are also great runs on the Papallacta, Cosanga, Salado, Dúe, and Coca Rivers. There are few intermediate runs in the area, therefore the area caters best to more advanced boaters.
Lodging
During the main kayaking season many paddlers come to stay in this area and therefore there are many hostals that cater to kayakers including Casa de Rodgrigo and Gina’s, both located in Baeza Viejo. Another great hostal located in El Chaco with a great view of the valley and wonderfully friendly staff is the Guardia de Coyote. The man called Coyote, who’s family runs the hostal, is a well know artisan who makes incredible sculptures out of bamboo.
Tourist Activities
This is a much less touristy area, with much more of the income and employment coming from agriculture. However, there are still many incredible sights to see and adventures to be had. In Baeza Viejo, starting from the hostals there are two great hiking options. If you cross the road and hike down towards the river you drop into thick, green jungle and come across two incredible waterfalls. If instead you start off in the opposite direction towards the mountains, after a long steep hike you will find yourself and the Mirador Oso with an amazing birds eye view out across the valley. In El Chaco ask about the Rio Loco and Rio Malo waterfalls. The first is a fun, scrambling hike up the Rio Loco drainage where you will find a series of incredible waterfalls. The second is a short walk to a huge, magnificent waterfall famous in the area.
Helpful links
http://www.kayakecuador.com/ (general and travel tips)
http://www.smallworldadventures.com/rivers/ (specific river info)
Please contact me for questions or specific connections to people in the area!
