It’s 5:30 AM and the alarm is going off, my mind slowly wakes up and as I open my eyes I look up to see the still dark sky strewn with stars. Why am I waking up again? Do I really want to get up right now? After a week of consistent paddling and hiking with my boat, my body hurts, but come on body! If I can just get out of this sleeping bag I get to go kayaking on the 22 Saltos section of the Rio Claro, one of the most magical rivers in the world; this is totally worth it.
The group stumbles around camp getting gear and food together, some with chipper morning greetings, other with wordless nods and grunts. As the sun slowly comes up we follow our guide Eli Castlebury on the hike through dry juniper and bamboo forests, up and down dry drainages, taking breaks to switch boats from one tired shoulder to the other, laughing at the absurd ends to which we go for adventure and to experience incredible rivers. After lowering boats down the last steep hill we finally arrive at the put in.
As we seal launch down into the canyon, more or less gracefully, the surrounding desert landscape instantly disappears and black, angular walls engulf us. This is a magical place. Crystal clear, blue water rushes and twists between walls that have been painstakingly carved and shaped by millions of years of volcanic activity and glacier melt. Sunlight streams in, rays of light glimmering off spider webs, the spray coming off the waterfalls upstream, and the dancing stream of bubbles along the eddy lines.
We turn downstream and quickly come to the first horizon line. Drive left. Right boof stroke. Make sure to avoid the sticky pocket on the bottom right of the drop. Land and stay loose through the boils. Catch the eddy. Around the next bend you can hear the roar of the 25-foot drop. Last lap I tucked and plugged it, but this time I want to test my new skills I learned from the incredible instructors, including David Hughes, Casey Jones, and Melissa Huckson, on this trip- the boof to stomp. As the water draws me to the lip I let my bow slightly point to the right, I put my weight forward and slightly on my left edge with my left blade waiting to find the lip. I spot the lip, tense my core, and plant my boof stroke. Moments later I kick my heels down so that I land and skip out across the pool at the landing. Success! Adrenaline rushes through my body and I pump my fist in the air, cheering and giggling with pure happiness. With a combination of stoke, nervous awareness, and the necessary skills we paddle the remaining drops to arrive back at camp in time for breakfast.
As kayakers we have the incredible privilege to explore and personally experience this kind of incredible place. This privilege is hard won- along with the beauty of this place there is an equal level of possible danger if not treated with respect. It is only with the right skills and level of logistical support that this canyon can become a perfect kayaking playground.
Before this trip I had some of the right skills and knowledge of logistics but not nearly enough to pull this trip off on my own. Through some online research I found Pucon Kayak Hostel and after talking with the super knowledgeable owner, David Hughes, I decided to look into their Teacups +PLUS trip. At first I felt wary of spending the money for a guided trip, wondering if I could do it for cheaper on my own and feeling a little strange for relying on a guide service for the first time. I was also unsure if I was a good enough paddler to go on the trip, I had run class IV+ before but had fairly limited experience on waterfalls. But it was definitely the right decision; the trip was an experience of a lifetime!
It was impressive to see how the PKH crew managed logistics such as transportation, vehicle and trailer repair, food buys, cooking, and lodging seamlessly while allowing clients the ability to focus on river time. On the river the PKH crew took on the role of guides, media experts, safety paddlers, and instructors depending on the needs and goals of the client. The instructors were able to cater to a range of paddlers from class III to class V and I was incredibly impressed at how much the whole group learned and improved over the week. In addition, watching other groups of paddlers that we came across struggle to find the hard to find put-ins and manage safety in these dangerous deep canyons further confirmed that I was glad of my decision to do this trip with PKH.
I had such an incredible experience on this trip. I got to paddle great new rivers with a fun and safe group, run more waterfalls than I ever thought I would, improve my boof, learn new skills, and explore some of the most beautiful places and rivers I have ever visited. I would highly recommend the 2018 Teacups +PLUS trip to anyone who is even a little interested. But even more than that, I recommend that no one wait until next season to come to Chile! Come down now, the paddling is incredible!!! There are other awesome trips offered by the hostel. Check out and book their upcoming trips on their website: http://puconkayakhostel.com/.
Pucon Kayak Hostel runs totally rad and professional trips across Chile in addition to having a perfectly located kayaking focused hostel in Pucon. Whether you are a beginner, intermediate, or advanced paddler PKH has something to offer you! Get off the couch, leave the cold weather behind, and come join us for 2017 Chile paddling season!!!
Thank you to Casey Bryant Jones for the photos!!
